Sharpening edged implements

[slipkid42]

So after reading Moab's thread on new threads, inspired me to ask this. 

What are some good resources on sharpening, axes, hatchets, knives, machetes, swords, etc...

I am not very good at sharpening pretty much anything.  I watch videos etc and well meh.  So I ordered this for a few hatchets and machetes I have.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00VTO5MK4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I have a smaller similar tool for knives. 

So how to keep the sharp things sharp?!

[Moab]

I think the one you posted is ok for someone that has never been taught how to sharpen something. And wants to sharpen fast. And isn't using an expensive knife.

But over time they tend to put waves in the cutting edge. And wear it down faster than normal. You wont get as sharp an edge either. But it is fast. And tools tend to take a lifetime to wear out from sharpening. But you can quickly ruin an edge if you want it to be completely sharp.

I have seen these type of sharpeners used in meat packing plants. Where im sure they found that it was cheaper to have employees use this faster sharpener and simply replace knives. Rather than spend the employee time to sharpen with a stone. But you want to keep your original knife and you want it to have as sharp an edge as you can maintain by hamd.

So this type of sharpener is ok. But not optimal. I do have one in my knife draw. But i only use it on very hard blades that are difficult to sharpen with a stone. And that i dont really care about the blades. The ones with ceramic stones in them are easier on blades. But really are only good for finishing a blades edge. As they take off very little edge. The bottom of a true ceramic bowl works just as well if not better. But you need to know how to sharpen a knife by hand to use one.

The correct way that i was taught from about 5 yrs old on. It probably took me awhile to perfect it on different angles of blades. Was to simply use a two sided stone or two stones. One medium grain and one smooth. One to smooth larger imperfections and one to put a nice smooth finish on the edge. But if your knife came with a decent edge and you haven't damaged it. A smooth stone will almost always work fine.

First put oil on the stone. I use 3 in 1. But just about any oil will do. You can use spit if you dont have any oil. Add more oil as it gets pushed off the stone or dries out.

You always run the blade across the stone. Unless its something large like a hatchet or axe.

But its all about what angle you hold the blade at while sliding it across the stone. And learning how to keep the blade at that correct angle threw the entire draw. Or drawing that blade across the stone.

You always want to draw the knife an equal number of times on each side. Like 10 and 10. As it gets sharper I like to reduce that number down by a couple draws a time until your sharpening it 1 to 1. Like 10, 8, 6, 4 and so on.

My advice is to number one find someone to teach this to you in person. This is the easiest. Its really one of those things that is best learned in person.

Second, find a good youtube video. And practice yourself. Start with a knife that has a simple carbon blade. Something soft. Like an old hickory knife. Something cheap. That you wont mind f ing up. Lol. Or practicing on.

This is a good video to copy. And he has a great paper trick to find the correct angle for most knives.


https://youtu.be/GtSMCsWk2gw

Start by trying to mimic the angle of the cutting edge that is already there on the blade. Then slightly increase that angle to get the edge sliding across the stone. Meaning you dont want to slide the side of the knife across the stone. You want to be lightly grinding away at the very edge of the blade. You'll know if you start leaving scratches across the side of the blade. If that happens your angle isn't extreme enough. Your just sliding the side of the knife across the stone and not the cutting edge.

When i say slightly increasing the angle i mean like way less than half a mm. Slightly more extreme than whatever edge is on there. There are different angles of blade edge. Some thicker knives may be very different from a thin one.

The reason you want to learn this way is it gives you a very good sharp edge, can be used on any cutting device, can be done anywhere you are with a very small stone, or a smooth rock even.

My personal belief is that every person should know how to do this. Its a basic skill. And you aren't going to carry one of those fancy sharpening devices that keeps the perfect angle without trying - everytime your out. And what if you lose that device?

Axes are different. For daily axe use, a flat file will work fine. Same principles apply. But your moving the file along the blade. Not the blade across the file. Look up a YouTube video for that.

The key is don't be afraid to do this on your own. And practice alot. You'll be able to tell if your angle is to extreme as the edge will dig into the stone. Back off slightly and try to perfect your angle. And your stroke. So that its just slightly off of the point where the edge is grabbing into the stone.

You also have to adjust the stroke so that the entire knife edge gets passed along the stone. You will see this in the above video.

Lastly, test the edge before, during and after with two techniques.

1) Place the blade at a right angle to your thumb prints. Scratch the blade sideways across your thumb prints and you will be able to feel how sharp the blade is. Do this lightly. Don't cut yourself. But the sharper the blade the more it will fall down into each ridge of your thumb print. And you'll feel the tiny bumps of your thumb prints ridges.

When its dull you won't feel the ridges as you wipe the blade across your thumb. But as it gets sharper the ridges will really stand out. And you'll feel it. Because the sharper the blade the more it will fall into each tiny ridge as you slide it across sideways. You'll see him do this in the above video.

2) Hold a peice of paper firm in your index finger and thumb. Cut the paper close to where you are holding it. A dull blade will not cut paper. A semi dull blade will leave a rough edge. A sharp blade will cut it just like a very good pair of scissors. Leaving a clean edge. This isnt necessary as you will be able to tell just from sliding it sideways across your thumb print. But it does show how finely sharp you can get your edge.

The video also shows finishing the edge off with leather. But this is only to polish the fine edge of the blade and make it hair shaving sharp. I dont use my knives to cut hair. So I dont bother with this step. As im usually only cutting rope or wood with my knives.

You can also wipe a very thin layer of oil across the blade. To keep it corrosion resistant. Which helps if your in a moist or salty climate. Your edge can develop rust if left in the sheath for a very long period of time. And those rust pits will have to be ground out with a rougher stone. Moving down to a smoother stone to perfect the edge again.

[Lodewijk]

I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker to keep things touched up. It won't exactly fix big problems but it is easy to use and with appropriate rods it takes very little thinking to reach shaving sharp as long as your knife isn't beaten to hell and gone.

I am in a boat where mental bandwidth is at a premium and I don't have a lot of time. It's good enough for that.

Axes are pretty easy to work on. A bastard file and a sharpening puck will do you fine. I generally clamp the axe to a work table to hold it still.

My wife and I cut down & processed like eight 25' Leyland Cypress trees a couple of years ago with a Husky 440, a camp axe, and a puukko. Was all fine for that.

[Rednex]

I kinda use a few things depending on what I'm sharpening. Shovels, " mud ax' and stuff i just use my table top belt sander. I have a worksharp I'm learning to use for knives. Then for the fine cutlery, and good ax, hatchets use different sharpening stones. I want to get those Japanese water stones for the real good stuff.     

[slipkid42]

Thanks Moab, I'll just keep practicing then lol.