It's from the leather. Haven't you ever had brass cartridges in belt loops turn green before? 

Quote from: MacWa77ace on January 16, 2024, 08:09:31 AMIs there some sort of plastic or resin protective coating on the brass parts of a Buck 110? I'm having issues with mine turning green on parts of the brass where I know there is a wear mark. I call it a 'wear mark' but if there is a protective coating on the brass its a spot WHERE it has chipped/worn off. And in those spots it looks like a 'coating' layer is missing.

No other parts of the brass are effected. It might be the green is corrosion from the leather treatment on the custom sheath I keep it in. [I know, don't keep it in that sheath] Its a nice sheath.



I'll try to get some pics of the green uploaded. I have to make sure every couple of months I clean it off. I just rub it with a cotton rag and it comes off. Rag turns green. Coating with oil doesn't help.

My Buck 110 and Schrade LB7 do the same thing. It's from the leather making contact with the brass.

You might try some brass cleaner and a coat of Renaissance wax on the brass before putting the knife back in the sheath.

Quote from: flybynight on January 16, 2024, 08:53:03 AMIt's from the leather. Haven't you ever had brass cartridges in belt loops turn green before?

Nope, I haven't started my 1860's collecting yet. Everything I have is polymer and nylon. This has been my only experience with brass contacting leather. But It only happens in those particular spots that look like a protective coating is worn off. in the  other spots no issues. If it was pristine, I bet I'd have no issues and not even known to ask.

Quote from: 12_Gauge_Chimp on January 16, 2024, 01:15:00 PMYou might try some brass cleaner and a coat of Renaissance wax on the brass before putting the knife back in the sheath.

Thanks, I'll look into that. I wonder what the protective coating is on those Buck's brass? Its not wax. I used a felt tip on my Dremel to clean it once a while back, but just rubbing with a cotton rag does about as good. And I've used Hopps 9 and various oils to clean and coat it too. But nothing keeps it from tarnishing in those spots after a month or two.

Quote from: 12_Gauge_Chimp on January 16, 2024, 01:15:00 PM

Quote from: MacWa77ace on January 16, 2024, 08:09:31 AMIs there some sort of plastic or resin protective coating on the brass parts of a Buck 110? I'm having issues with mine turning green on parts of the brass where I know there is a wear mark. I call it a 'wear mark' but if there is a protective coating on the brass its a spot WHERE it has chipped/worn off. And in those spots it looks like a 'coating' layer is missing.

No other parts of the brass are effected. It might be the green is corrosion from the leather treatment on the custom sheath I keep it in. [I know, don't keep it in that sheath] Its a nice sheath.



I'll try to get some pics of the green uploaded. I have to make sure every couple of months I clean it off. I just rub it with a cotton rag and it comes off. Rag turns green. Coating with oil doesn't help.

My Buck 110 and Schrade LB7 do the same thing. It's from the leather making contact with the brass.

You might try some brass cleaner and a coat of Renaissance wax on the brass before putting the knife back in the sheath.

I know a lot of brass parts/products do have a lacquer style coating on them depending on who makes them.

When I was in the USCG, we were instructed to removed all coatings from our brass belt buckles for inspection so it could be true brass finish that's polished... Because everything had to be made more difficult. That way finger prints would show. There is a slight tint so you couldn't get away with not doing it.

Naked brass tarnishes very quickly 

Quote from: JeeperCreeper on January 16, 2024, 03:42:53 PMWhen I was in the USCG, we were instructed to removed all coatings from our brass belt buckles for inspection so it could be true brass finish that's polished... Because everything had to be made more difficult. That way finger prints would show. There is a slight tint so you couldn't get away with not doing it.

Naked brass tarnishes very quickly 

Varnish, or lacquer, that's what i was suspecting. I'll try to get a closeup tonight. That's what it is I bet.

Well, a lacquer coating or varnish would explain the weird purple-ish tint my Buck 110 has on the brass.

My Schrade LB7 doesn't have much of a tint to it, but the brass is starting to get a patina on it. Moreso than the Buck 110.

Quote from: MacWa77ace on January 16, 2024, 03:35:29 PM

Quote from: flybynight on January 16, 2024, 08:53:03 AMIt's from the leather. Haven't you ever had brass cartridges in belt loops turn green before?

Nope, I haven't started my 1860's collecting yet. Everything I have is polymer and nylon. This has been my only experience with brass contacting leather. But It only happens in those particular spots that look like a protective coating is worn off. in the  other spots no issues. If it was pristine, I bet I'd have no issues and not even known to ask.

Quote from: 12_Gauge_Chimp on January 16, 2024, 01:15:00 PMYou might try some brass cleaner and a coat of Renaissance wax on the brass before putting the knife back in the sheath.

Thanks, I'll look into that. I wonder what the protective coating is on those Buck's brass? Its not wax. I used a felt tip on my Dremel to clean it once a while back, but just rubbing with a cotton rag does about as good. And I've used Hopps 9 and various oils to clean and coat it too. But nothing keeps it from tarnishing in those spots after a month or two.

I used to carry a Ruger Blackhawk .357 as a sidearm while hunting  starting in the mid 1980's. So start your 1980's collecting . You can start here



Now... NOW Chop chop
  On brass bolsters of knives I've always polished them with a buffing wheel . Either with a Drill or  Dremel and  polishing compound.  If I remember right. Vegetable tanned leather won't turn brass green

There's a guy I'm subscribed to on YouTube called "The Knife Doctor" and he uses something called 'Never Dull' on his brass bolstered knives like Buck and Schrade.

Come to think of it, he uses that stuff on the blades too. He also uses copious amounts of Rem Oil when he's cleaning whatever knife he's fixing too.

ETA: I also want one of those holsters for my 1911, just in a left handed version. Only guns I've got that I've got holsters for are my G17 and G21.

Quote from: 12_Gauge_Chimp on January 16, 2024, 05:50:53 PMThere's a guy I'm subscribed to on YouTube called "The Knife Doctor" and he uses something called 'Never Dull' on his brass bolstered knives like Buck and Schrade.
Come to think of it, he uses that stuff on the blades too. He also uses copious amounts of Rem Oil when he's cleaning whatever knife he's fixing too.
ETA: I also want one of those holsters for my 1911, just in a left handed version. Only guns I've got that I've got holsters for are my G17 and G21.

https://epsaddlery.com/product/1930-austin-holster/

Quote from: flybynight on January 16, 2024, 05:56:53 PM

Quote from: 12_Gauge_Chimp on January 16, 2024, 05:50:53 PMThere's a guy I'm subscribed to on YouTube called "The Knife Doctor" and he uses something called 'Never Dull' on his brass bolstered knives like Buck and Schrade.
Come to think of it, he uses that stuff on the blades too. He also uses copious amounts of Rem Oil when he's cleaning whatever knife he's fixing too.
ETA: I also want one of those holsters for my 1911, just in a left handed version. Only guns I've got that I've got holsters for are my G17 and G21.

https://epsaddlery.com/product/1930-austin-holster/

Nice.

Looks like I may have found my birthday gift to myself this year. 

ETA: Or maybe not considering that holster is almost 200 bucks.

Quote from: 12_Gauge_Chimp on January 16, 2024, 05:50:53 PMThere's a guy I'm subscribed to on YouTube called "The Knife Doctor" and he uses something called 'Never Dull' on his brass bolstered knives like Buck and Schrade.

Come to think of it, he uses that stuff on the blades too. He also uses copious amounts of Rem Oil when he's cleaning whatever knife he's fixing too.

ETA: I also want one of those holsters for my 1911, just in a left handed version. Only guns I've got that I've got holsters for are my G17 and G21.

Never dull is great! Polished a ton of boat parts with it. Used to polish my Jeep chrome too.

But, if you use it on something with a coating, it will get rid of it and you'll have to keep on top of maintenance.

Think of it like a "stripper" that removes the ugly surface. Not that kind of stripper....

Quote from: JeeperCreeper on January 16, 2024, 11:17:36 PM

Quote from: 12_Gauge_Chimp on January 16, 2024, 05:50:53 PMThere's a guy I'm subscribed to on YouTube called "The Knife Doctor" and he uses something called 'Never Dull' on his brass bolstered knives like Buck and Schrade.

Come to think of it, he uses that stuff on the blades too. He also uses copious amounts of Rem Oil when he's cleaning whatever knife he's fixing too.

ETA: I also want one of those holsters for my 1911, just in a left handed version. Only guns I've got that I've got holsters for are my G17 and G21.

Never dull is great! Polished a ton of boat parts with it. Used to polish my Jeep chrome too.

But, if you use it on something with a coating, it will get rid of it and you'll have to keep on top of maintenance.

Think of it like a "stripper" that removes the ugly surface. Not that kind of stripper....

Two things you learn about quickly in the USN are Brasso and Nevr-Dull.  What you learn is that Brasso works but pretty much sucks compared to Nevr-Dull, and that the Navy is only going to issue you Brasso.  If you want the good shit you have to buy it yourself... and the ship's store will be happy to sell you some of the Navy's stash of the stuff.  I got out of the Navy more than 40 years ago, and if I go walk into my kitchen right now and open the cabinet under the sink there's going to be a can of Nevr-Dull under there, and another one somewhere in the garage. Nevr-Dull will polish brass like Tinkerbell herself slid across it on her ass, leaving a trail of sparkles behind her. It's what Mr. Fucking Clean uses to polish his earring. It is the GOAT of brass polishes.

I'll look for Nevr-Dull the next time I go to Walmart. Stuff should be in the same aisle as the Brasso, right ?

Do you see varnish or lacquer coating?



Will that Nevr-Dull take the coating off?

 

Nevr-Dull is petroleum-based and is essentially cotton wadding soaked in the stuff.  It's highly volatile and I think the combination of the ingredients and the wadding itself (never throw away any of the wadding, just put it back in the can and reuse it, adding more as needed) which is slightly abrasive will wear through most coatings eventually.

Quote from: MacWa77ace on January 17, 2024, 08:09:44 AMDo you see varnish or lacquer coating?



Will that Nevr-Dull take the coating off?

 

I think what you are seeing is just oxidation . I searched and found no mention any type of film that is applied

Quote from: flybynight on January 17, 2024, 12:25:50 PMI think what you are seeing is just oxidation . I searched and found no mention any type of film that is applied

Wait, sorry, yes, the green is the copper oxide. [the oxidation] Me too, I can't find anything that says there's a coating. Just strange huh?


ETA: hmmmm

How to Prevent Copper Oxide from Forming
The simplest way to keep copper, brass, and bronze from turning green is to just clean it regularly. It can take several weeks for the patina to form under average conditions.

That said, maintenance is a pain. So if you don't want to have to remember to clean your copper, there are some alternatives.

Clear coat options are the most popular for things like hardware and jewelry. This is an example of one that will protect copper from tarnishing or forming a patina. Honestly, though, there are hundreds of products out there that are designed to keep copper looking bright.

Clear nail polish can also work well to protect copper. This is more popular for things like jewelry, but it doesn't last as long as a proper hard clear coat.

A very old-fashioned way of preserving copper is by polishing it with beeswax. It takes a bit of elbow grease, but it does a very good job of protecting the metal from moisture and oxygen.

I like the beeswax method. When they say it takes elbow grease, I can't imagine it takes any more than polishing the copper or brass in the first place.

What about using that Renaissance wax that MidwayUSA sells ?

I know some folks use that to wax the grips on pistols, but I wonder if it'd also work on brass like on the Buck 110 ?

Look what followed me home from Walmart today. It's a CRKT LCK+ assisted opening folder.

You cannot view this attachment.

ETA: Ignore my phone shadow at the lower left.