Given the recent storm damage and HVAC problems experienced by a couple members thought this might be a good topic, what kind of parts or supplies do you have or recommend having to perform emergency repairs when a trip to the hardware store (or ordering from Amazon) isn't an option? For the purposes of this thread guess I'm thinking:
1) Low cost (say $20 or so)
2) Universal, generic, or industry standard size/compatibility, or an assortment of common sizes/types if in a kit
Thought this might be helpful to catch something you (or me) might not have thought of, or as resource to check before heading to the hardware store or placing the next online order. Some items that I either have or that are on my wish list:
Thermocouples (https://www.amazon.com/Emerson-TC24-Universal-Thermocouple-24-inch/dp/B00RJF4TJW), since many gas appliances and propane heaters use them.
Well pump pressure switch (https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-9013FSG2J21-Differential/dp/B000IJSWIA) if you have a water pressure tank.
Foam air filter material (https://www.amazon.com/Uni-Filter-BF-2-30-PPI-Coarse/dp/B000ONZT5Y) (cut to fit), fuel lines (https://www.amazon.com/HOODELL-Premium-Craftman-Chainsaw-Trimmer/dp/B07FLP42TP), and inline fuel filters (https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Inline-Filters-Motorcycle-Accessories/dp/B09XHS1VML) for minor small engine repairs.
Hose clamps (https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-40PCS-Hose-Clamp-Set/dp/B08HJMC5F8).
O Rings (https://www.amazon.com/Kleviro-Metric-Nitrile-Rubber-Assortment/dp/B09SGR8HNH). Mostly fixed a very badly leaking pump jack with a couple of these when a complete gasket repair kit from the manufacturer was $250.
Buss fuses (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Values-360pcs-Assortment-6x30mm/dp/B09CPN8HQQ). Many car adapters/chargers use these, and some older electronic equipment will use these on the circuit board near the power supply.
Barbed hose fittings (https://www.amazon.com/Fitting-Plastic-Splicer-Mender-Adapter/dp/B09W5CLV5V). Needed a couple of these to repair a mouse-chewed windshield wiper fluid hose just a couple weeks ago.
Silicone caulk (https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Silicone-Waterproof-Resistant-Cartridge/dp/B01NCSN5AS/), LeakSeal Flexible Rubber Spray (https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-351905-LeakSeal-Flexible-Coating/dp/B09RGL4SJC),Insulating foam sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Big-Filler-Insulating-Foam-Sealant/dp/B009YNYBV8%5C"). Weatherproofing.
Tire repair kit (https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-USA-Compact-Tire-Repair/dp/B089KVQMJV/)
And if you don't already have them, a Torx Bit Set (https://www.amazon.com/Amartisan-24-Piece-Security-Tamper-Resistant/dp/B081M6MZQK) since so many manufacturers use torx head screws for their products (which I assume can only be to discourage DIY repairs).
I think that covers just about everything... :smiley_knipoog:
That is a good topic.
- Lots of O-Rings and sealants.
- Angle valves and hoses for the water tap, I find these leak quite easily.
- spare wastewater pipes. Both for repairs and enough so I can build a junction away from our house, should the sewage system be blocked for longer. We have an old pit latrine, but this way I could still use fresh water or redirect the rain water away from the foundation and basement without creating a mess.
- Basically, everything to make emergency repairs for my water system, both fresh and sewage.
- I have one of these drill-cranked water pumps and flexible tube in case I have some flooded area and the power is out. I can operate it with a hand drill if I need to.
- Spare fuses for the distribution box.
- Lots of tools with alternatives for a power outage: hand drills, saws, planes, ...
- Some shingles for the roof and some big, sturdy tarps should there be a bigger problem as well as bitumen felt. The tarps can also be used should a window break.
- Rope, cable ties, hose clamps, lots of screws and nails in different sizes. I don´t know how it´s called in English, but a punched steel strapping
- Threaded rods with matching nuts. I can fabricate bolts if I need something stronger or bigger than a screw out of these.
- spare construction wood, beams and roof batten. I live in a half-timbered house, so with this and reused mud I can pretty much rebuild our entire home.
- Some of these aluminized windscreen foils you can buy for your car in winter. These are useful for insulation purposes.
- a bag of burnt lime, but I think this depends on the house.
- lots of buckets
Thats what I can currently think of, or things we have. I hadn´t even thought about it before, despite working in the building industry. I need to mull over this some more.
I keep quite few parts around for small engine repair. I have an old 2-stroke Lawnboy push mower from the 70's that gets a lot of usage by my boy mowing our yard. I have several disassembled complete engines for the same mower that came with the mower when I received it. I've used several parts over the 10 or so years I've had it, and I've done the same with the old wheel horse lawnmower we use as well. Keeping old but still usable parts around is always a viable idea.
The same applies to o-rings and sealants, various types of lubricants and/or greases, fuses, 2x4's/2x6's, nails and screws, rope, paracord, cable ties (metal/plastic), and so much more.
I've also found its useful to keep cheaper items like thermocoupler for the water heater or a capacitor or 2 for the furnace or A/C. Even the cans of spray foam are handy. The same applies to stuff like rolls of rodent proof mesh screen.
There is so many different things that one could keep around that it's almost person specific...
Parts etc:
For small engine repairs I keep:
a few feet each of two sizes of fuel lines.
spare carburetor bulbs.
fuel line filters
Spare edger blades [only because I buy them from my supplier 5 at a time. LMS = Local mower store]
Electric motors I keep Spare Capacitors:
HVAC for the compressor and evaporator.
Garage door opener
Pool pump motor
Miscellaneous but related:
Carb Cleaner
WD40
Seafoam for the two stroke cleanout.
Magic Lube for pool/sprinkler gaskets
White Lithium
Liquid Gasket
Flex seal
Metallic Duct Tape
Duct tape
Multi-Meter
3 in 1 oil
Various sized bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts.
Tools Etc:
For small engine repairs you need the torx drivers these days. So get a set of those.
Spark plug gap gauge
Good socket set SAE and Metric.
Phillips and Flat head screwdriver set.
Wrench set SAE and Metric
Grinder [to sharpen mower blades and other things]
Electrical etc:
Black, white, red wire in two gauges
Spare Couplers
Soldering equipment and solder removal.
Crimping tools various
Wire stripping tools various
ADDITIONAL but off topic
I have tools and some spare parts for
Auto Repairs and Maintenance
Auto Body repair
Irrigation repairs
Plumbing repairs
Tile
Screen
Roofing repairs and emergency weatherproofing
PVC pipe and fittings
CPVC pipe and fittings
(House has a mix at the moment)
Garden hose repair fittings
Crescent wrenches
Pipe wrenches
12V water transfer pump
Battery
Charger. AC and solar
Siphon bulb
Rubber pipe boots and adapters
Pipe clamps
Baking wire
Machine screws and bolts standard and metric
All thread
Fuses
Wire terminals
Wire
Leftover exhaust pipe pieces
JB weld
Epoxy
Glues
Tapes
Appliance parts yes.
Plumbing parts yes.
Electrical parts yes.
Adhesives, Lubricants, Fasteners etc. yes.
Tools for most any repair I can perform yes.
Not much in the way of small engine parts, because there's only one that I'd consider an emergency use item, that being my chainsaw. I've never felt it an emergency to repair a lawnmower and have to cut the grass, or repair the blower right now to clear leaves. Maybe I'm not thinking thinking broad enough for those?
And I'm fairly certain none of my small engines are new enough to require torx bits, or at least not that I've encountered in regular maintenance that I recall.
I think a good tool set is a great start, but what comes after needs to be specific to your own situation.
Are you nestled in suburbia? Might not need to keep the spare engine for the snow mobile.
Middle of the woods in a remote Canadian province? Boy - it'd sure be nice to have that spare engine...
Go through the lists above, see what works for you. Remember some things are universal, tools, bailing wire, etc. Just because you bought that hose clamp for the overflow tank on the truck, doesn't mean you can't use it for the blown garden hose.
Most importantly "KNOWLEDGE". Why keep that spare engine, if you don't even know how to change a spark plug?
This such a great topic!
When I get back to New Hampshire I'll be staying with a friend initially.
Within a few months, I expect to be in my own apartment, or possibly a small house.
Even in an apartment, having stuff on hand to make emergency repairs to plumbing, etc. would be an excellent idea.
All good stuff, but I was hoping for more links to specific items :( I'm lazy; just wanted to click your link, agree that's a good item to have, and 'add to cart'.
Mentioned in a different thread about my clothes washer supply line leak and my first experience using the Sharkbite fittings. Since my leak was before the washer shutoff valve I had to turn off the water to the whole house while fixing it. With these, just cut the pipe before the leak, a little sanding, and snap a shutoff valve on:
Close quarters pipe cutter (https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-32985-Quarters-Tubing-16-inch/dp/B000WT6U8U/) Less clearance required, like inside walls.
Sharkbite ball valve (https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-22185-0000LFA-22185-0000LF-Plumbing-fitting/dp/B003128NXA/) Check your pipe sizes, many US homes use 3/4" for the main and 1/2" for the branches I believe.
Least the rest of the house will have water while you fix the other end, or worst case just live without that particular branch or faucet. This could come in handy too:
50 feet of PEX tubing (https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-Tubing-Flexible-Potable-U860R50/dp/B00A8HUV2C/)
I like to keep a sillcock key, crescent wrench, pipe wrench, and various shutoff knobs handy.
Quote from: Lambykins on June 26, 2022, 12:11:56 AMEven in an apartment, having stuff on hand to make emergency repairs to plumbing, etc. would be an excellent idea.
At least have a basic toolbox. The number of times I had to borrow a neighbour something as simple as a screwdriver or hammer when I still lived in a flat was astonishing. :eek1:
Quote from: Lambykins on June 26, 2022, 12:11:56 AMhaving stuff on hand to make emergency repairs to plumbing, etc. would be an excellent idea.
I don't think I saw it mentioned above, but one of the things I consider a 'must have' is a water meter key/curb key/Shutoff wrench.
It usually costs about 12-20$ and it's one of those items that you never use, unless you need it RIGHT HEKING NOW!
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71DXyNSvv6L._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
Your situation may be different, but the last few houses I've lived in, did not have house side main shut off valves, so to kill the water to the house (think broken pipe). I had to go curbside. For reference, Wifes last home, had house side shutoffs... YMMV. An adjustable Crescent Wrench and a screwdriver can be substituted in emergency's...
Quote from: SCBrian on June 27, 2022, 10:26:31 AMQuote from: Lambykins on June 26, 2022, 12:11:56 AMhaving stuff on hand to make emergency repairs to plumbing, etc. would be an excellent idea.
I don't think I saw it mentioned above, but one of the things I consider a 'must have' is a water meter key/curb key/Shutoff wrench.
It usually costs about 12-20$ and it's one of those items that you never use, unless you need it RIGHT HEKING NOW!
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71DXyNSvv6L._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
Your situation may be different, but the last few houses I've lived in, did not have house side main shut off valves, so to kill the water to the house (think broken pipe). I had to go curbside. For reference, Wifes last home, had house side shutoffs... YMMV. An adjustable Crescent Wrench and a screwdriver can be substituted in emergency's...
Make sure you can locate your Buffalo box and then make sure you get a long enough key to reach the shut off also. Ours is curbside and about an 8' drop to the shut off valve.
Spare mowers, trimmers and edgers that you can scavenge for parts or use as backup.
I cracked the main shaft on my Ryobi powerhead. How'd I do that? Well the gears on my Craftsman hedge trimmer attachment finally gave out after 6+ years, and repairing/replacing them would have cost almost as much as a replacement attachment. So I opted for buying a replacement, but the replacement had a shaft that was about 12" long vs the original which was about 6". I noticed the difference in additional torque on my hedging passes right away, as I could feel the torque in my arm. felt much heavier.
(https://ufozs.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.hedgetrimmer.biz%2Fl-m%2F79249-swath-gas-hedge.jpg&hash=4ca6822d7ae96104cdd832de4038ad2493898ff8)
Shortly thereafter, maybe 4 months of use, while I'm swinging the powerhead with the hedger attachment it 'flops' like a wet noodle. the shaft cracked and bent on the powerhead.
But I had an old Ryobi powerhead, which I was able to pull the drive shaft off that model and attach to the newer model powerhead with only one 'customization'.
Basically replacing the shaft on this model
(https://ufozs.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.com%2Fcatalog%2FproductImages%2F300%2Fd4%2Fd4119dc1-dee2-4b34-b321-751b62d6d3f2_300.jpg&hash=27be90f7f9ca553e8924e57f5f1366c6ee085054)
with the one from this different model.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.com%2Fcatalog%2FproductImages%2F400%2Fb6%2Fb6d71221-1bc1-4071-afa9-bb0427ba0a8e_400.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
2 is one.
Oh, and the transmission on my Toro 22" inch recycler self propelled mower just went out. Bought that mower used about 12 years ago. The replacement transmission is $95. I paid $160 for that mower used back then, they are about $360-499 new today.
(https://ufozs.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn1.viewpoints.com%2Fpro-product-photos%2F000%2F028%2F861%2F300%2F1277133055-40712_full.jpg&hash=a495c51b7d85ee04dd90ed316ff227c02c5444eb)
Funny thing about that, I didn't know it had stopped working and I'm zipping around mowing the lawn and getting really tired and wondering what the wetbulb is [inside joke from another thread] because I'm dying pushing that thing with the broke transmission. I was like 'what the hell?!? pant, pant' LOL. So I have two other walk behind mowers I can bring back into service or order the new transmission and replace that. I'll probably do both as I've been meaning to bring the other mowers back to life anyhow. Both were scavenged. If I didn't already have those two extra mowers I might buy used replacement off of OfferUp or Craigslist but since I already have three I should fix those first right?
Quote from: wolf_from_wv on June 26, 2022, 10:00:18 PMI like to keep a sillcock key, crescent wrench, pipe wrench, and various shutoff knobs handy.
Is there a particular model of sillcock key you recommend?
I'd make a post, but I don't want to trigger a circa-2008 ZS sillcock legality discussion.
:smiley_devil: Or do I.....
Quote from: echo83 on November 06, 2022, 02:23:32 PMQuote from: wolf_from_wv on June 26, 2022, 10:00:18 PMI like to keep a sillcock key, crescent wrench, pipe wrench, and various shutoff knobs handy.
Is there a particular model of sillcock key you recommend?
I'd make a post, but I don't want to trigger a circa-2008 ZS sillcock legality discussion.
:smiley_devil: Or do I.....
I have 3 of these Silcock Keys (https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-PST154-4-Way-Sillcock/dp/B0002YVMEM) for my various grips. They are a handy tool to have around...
Quote from: NapalmMan67 on June 24, 2022, 03:13:51 PMNot much in the way of small engine parts, because there's only one that I'd consider an emergency use item, that being my chainsaw. I've never felt it an emergency to repair a lawnmower and have to cut the grass, or repair the blower right now to clear leaves. Maybe I'm not thinking thinking broad enough for those?
And I'm fairly certain none of my small engines are new enough to require torx bits, or at least not that I've encountered in regular maintenance that I recall.
It sucks to blow out a carburetor bulb or get a fuel line leak when you've already started your lawnwork and you're all dirty and sweaty and have to stop, clean up and change, then jump in the car to run to the supply store to buy the part and then come back and repair the tool, and then start in again on the lawnwork. Or even find out before you start that you've got a problem and don't have the spares so have to run out and buy them. I've had it happen to me before. So I buy extra to fix these 'emergencies' while I'm already sweaty an dirty and can finish in a reasonable timeframe.
In South Florida in the summer, with all the sun and rain showers my yard grows 3-5" in a week, so can't put off that maintenance for even a week. So if I miss a week the next week is TEOTWAWKI. :smiley_blink:
Fuel lines, fuel filters and carb bulbs are the weakest link in my experience and they may be universal for your chainsaws.
Kobalt Four Way Key
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Combo-Wrench/1002633336?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_208_Plumbing-Repair-_-1002633336-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=CjwKCAiA9qKbBhAzEiwAS4yeDaeG_z_90QUT7EBZg9tYU3FasJ-oTnSz5g_FG-BtkrsEklCq-ls77xoCM0IQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
They all seem to be the same to me.
When I replace a water valve or something, I usually take the handle off and put it in a bag.
Extra bleeder keys for the radiators
Extra thermocouples for the boiler
Extra faucet washers and packing material
Quote from: MacWa77ace on November 07, 2022, 08:58:06 AMQuote from: NapalmMan67 on June 24, 2022, 03:13:51 PMNot much in the way of small engine parts, because there's only one that I'd consider an emergency use item, that being my chainsaw. I've never felt it an emergency to repair a lawnmower and have to cut the grass, or repair the blower right now to clear leaves. Maybe I'm not thinking thinking broad enough for those?
And I'm fairly certain none of my small engines are new enough to require torx bits, or at least not that I've encountered in regular maintenance that I recall.
It sucks to blow out a carburetor bulb or get a fuel line leak when you've already started your lawnwork and you're all dirty and sweaty and have to stop, clean up and change, then jump in the car to run to the supply store to buy the part and then come back and repair the tool, and then start in again on the lawnwork. Or even find out before you start that you've got a problem and don't have the spares so have to run out and buy them. I've had it happen to me before. So I buy extra to fix these 'emergencies' while I'm already sweaty an dirty and can finish in a reasonable timeframe.
In South Florida in the summer, with all the sun and rain showers my yard grows 3-5" in a week, so can't put off that maintenance for even a week. So if I miss a week the next week is TEOTWAWKI. :smiley_blink:
Fuel lines, fuel filters and carb bulbs are the weakest link in my experience and they may be universal for your chainsaws.
Ok, but in 40+ years I've had one primer bulb fail... in winter on a snow blower that froze and cracked, I hand shoveled. Never had a fuel line fail, but not so say they can't. I also never saw the need to get cleaned up, change clothes and then go out for parts during any project I was working on, but I'm not a prima donna :clownshoes: and don't care what people think of me if I'm on a parts run.
FWIW- I drain all the fuel from my machines and clean the carbs/line/filters prior to seasonal storage, so there's no fuel sitting long term and promote extra rot in the plastic and rubber parts.
I have 3 mowers available (actually want to be rid of 2 of them), although nice to have spares, I'd rather have the space they take up at this point in time of life vs the spare parts they offer.
I mow our grass once a month, or when the cute and fuzzy bunnies and squirrels leave trails in the grass like mini Raptors as they move across the ground.
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Quote from: NapalmMan67 on November 07, 2022, 03:48:43 PMOk, but in 40+ years I've had one primer bulb fail... in winter on a snow blower that froze and cracked, I hand shoveled. Never had a fuel line fail, but not so say they can't. I also never saw the need to get cleaned up, change clothes and then go out for parts during any project I was working on, but I'm not a prima donna :clownshoes: and don't care what people think of me if I'm on a parts run.
FWIW- I drain all the fuel from my machines and clean the carbs/line/filters prior to seasonal storage, so there's no fuel sitting long term and promote extra rot in the plastic and rubber parts.
I have 3 mowers available (actually want to be rid of 2 of them), although nice to have spares, I'd rather have the space they take up at this point in time of life vs the spare parts they offer.
I mow our grass once a month, or when the cute and fuzzy bunnies and squirrels leave trails in the grass like mini Raptors as they move across the ground.
.
In my AO our season is year round. I don't know what it is but we have 10% ethanol gas here which everyone says messes up the silicone gas lines and bulbs. The gas lines get hardened and then start to leak where they go into the gas tank on the power heads of the trimmers. And the bulbs crack and leak. I'm in Florida so maybe the heat is the culprit but silicone is not supposed to be effected by temps in the range we get. But the gas lines only last 2-3 years.
It may also be that I keep repairing my tools where everyone else or the 'best if used by' is only a couple of years and when they stop working they get trashed. I've always used the budget brands. Not the professional brands, although I recently inherited a Stihl trimmer and a Stihl blower.
Now on my mower there are rubber gas lines and carb primer bulb and the current one I'm using is over 10 years old and i've never replaced the gas line or bulb on that one.
In December I'm mowing/trimming every other week, and end of Jan beginning of Feb I might be able to get away with every 3 weeks. February is our winter here in Florida. Dec Jan is fall, March April is spring and May-November is summer. Aug-Sept is 'peak' summer. LOL.
I'm sure the longer heat time frame in the weather there plays a big role in deterioration of the rubber/plastic parts. I've been to FL, Dec, Jan and Feb are tolerable at best weather wise for heat and humidity. The rest of the year just sucks imo. I am a winter Ie; snow, ice, more snow, sub zero temps kind of guy.
When my current Echo trimmer really dies, I'll replace it with a Stihl. I have a couple of their blowers that are awesome compared to other brands.
And fwiw, a few posts back you mentioned a Toro mower- The one I had was the biggest POS ever, they actually didn't have a primer bulb on it. Was a lemon from the get go, had it in the shop two weeks after purchasing for not starting and about every month it was back. Advertised as "Guaranteed to Start" technology... BS. It was a premium model in 2010 when I got it, well over $500. Never will own one again. Sorry, just a little rant on them.
.
Quote from: NapalmMan67 on November 08, 2022, 03:37:38 PMI'm sure the longer heat time frame in the weather there plays a big role in deterioration of the rubber/plastic parts. I've been to FL, Dec, Jan and Feb are tolerable at best weather wise for heat and humidity. The rest of the year just sucks imo. I am a winter Ie; snow, ice, more snow, sub zero temps kind of guy.
When my current Echo trimmer really dies, I'll replace it with a Stihl. I have a couple of their blowers that are awesome compared to other brands.
And fwiw, a few posts back you mentioned a Toro mower- The one I had was the biggest POS ever, they actually didn't have a primer bulb on it. Was a lemon from the get go, had it in the shop two weeks after purchasing for not starting and about every month it was back. Advertised as "Guaranteed to Start" technology... BS. It was a premium model in 2010 when I got it, well over $500. Never will own one again. Sorry, just a little rant on them.
.
Your making me feel cold
SubZero, LOL. I can take freezing temps for short periods, like a week or two on vacations. But I can't take getting out of the shower into the cold for very long. I can take the summers here over the winters up north, I'm am a Florida Boy born and raised. :smiley_knipoog:
I'm really leaning towards the Ethanol not the temps on the silicone. Its supposed to be good to 400 degrees but its just weird that if I prep a tool for storage [drain fluids] and don't use it for a couple years, when I go back an press the bulb it'll just crack and disintegrate. I must be doing it wrong.
This Toro of mine is incredible, other than the transmission going just recently it has never failed to start on the slightest of pulls. [hope I didn't just jinx it] AND I bought it used at least 14 years ago. Only maintenance I've done on it is change the oil, plugs, air filter and sharpened the blade. You definitely got a lemon sounds like.
I used a Craftsman that had a manual choke, manual throttle, and that was really powerful for a 22 inch side discharge self drive. It was harder to start but I was using that from about 4th grade 'til Sophomore in college until we sold it and it was still working fine as I recall.
Temps dropped from 75* yesterday to 41* today, going down to the 20s tonight. My wife was frumpy with me last weekend when our house was 55*. I love it.
One of the best push mowers I ever had was an old Murray I bought new for $65.00, ran that for 20+ years and sold it for $40.00. The deck had rusted out in spots a few times that I had patched, wore out I think 3 set of wheels too. Just kept chugging though.
As I got older, I got really tired of mowing a half an acre of grass with it though. Thank goodness for the 36"w self propelled Scag these days. lol
Small engine recent anecdotes [with tools and parts OT]:
My Stihl string trimmer [dedicated], that I inherited last year, and I had immediately replaced the airfilter, spark plug, fuel filter and bulb on it, worked less and less reliably and then finally, a couple of months ago, I couldn't keep it running. The main symptom was that the primer bulb wouldn't fill and wouldn't maintain fuel in the bulb. BUT since I have another Ryobi power head that has the clickit attachments I put off messing with the Stihl any further for the time being. I was in the middle of yardwerk for chrissake.
A couple of months later and then my Ryobi just started doing something really weird after working completely fine the last time I used it. The next week I tried to start it and it didn't want to start but finally did, then it didn't want to run unless I was at full throttle and it was turning as if it was at about half throttle. Then last week I got finished edging with the Ryobi, dealing with this barely running issue, and when I went to change to the string trimmer to do the trimming, it just wouldn't start at all. Crap, all I really needed to finish was string trim.
So I pulled out the Stihl and my carb cleaner spray and started cleaning up the carb, took it apart and sprayed into every orifice that looked like it might be a fuel flow etc. [I hate doing repairs WHILE I'm in the middle of doing my lawn] But it still wouldn't prime right. So pulled the bulb section off again and very carefully pressed the diaphragm and fuel shot up. That's a good thing. Put the bulb back on and it primed, started, and ran perfectly. Something was clogged or stuck. That let me finish trimming but I couldn't trim my hedges with the hedge attachment on my Ryobi since that wouldn't work.
So this weekend before I started my yardwerk, I was looking at the carburetor on my Ryobi, my first suspicion, and had the air filter off when I, for some reason, pushed on the carb side to side and there was some play there. :eek1: Then I looked at the piston housing and saw some oil coming past the gasket and moved it again and it was definitely moving. The friggin' piston housing was loose and I had lost compression. No wonder why I couldn't start it. :headbang:
On this Ryobi you have to take the whole thing apart to get at the bolts that hold that part tight. Luckily I have torx bits and a battery powered drill to make quick work of the 12 bolts I have to remove. Only my lithium battery died after the fourth bolt. So out comes the manual torx drivers [and a bunch of cuss words]. And after tightening the piston housing up, and reassembling all those bolts [manually tightening them], it started right up and worked fine. But since I was kinda in a hurry I didn't clean the oil off the bolts and clean out the bolt holes, and then use Loctite on them. So I bet it'll get loose again.
I might, for now, drill out two access holes thru the plastic casing for each of the two bolts that hold that piston housing on so I can just tighten it without taking the thing apart. The right way to do it would be to take it completely apart, clean out all the oil and Loctite the bolts back in. I don't feel like doing that this summer. It's to hot. :rolleyes1: So probably just drilling IF, the piston housing gets loose again.
Quote from: MacWa77ace on November 09, 2022, 08:13:25 AMThis Toro of mine is incredible, other than the transmission going just recently it has never failed to start on the slightest of pulls. [hope I didn't just jinx it] AND I bought it used at least 14 years ago. Only maintenance I've done on it is change the oil, plugs, air filter and sharpened the blade. Y
So I still haven't fixed the transmission on the Toro. A new transmission costs $99 and probably an hour's work. So I'm telling myself that I'm 'in training' pushing that thing around my yard without the power drive in the heat of the Florida summer.
Loctite on those bolts likely wouldn't hold for long, Mac. The stuff breaks down with heat.
Quote from: NT2C on June 19, 2023, 01:37:37 PMLoctite on those bolts likely wouldn't hold for long, Mac. The stuff breaks down with heat.
Yep.
I have some Rocksett also, used it on a muffler's bolt on another trimmer's power head. The shield cover came loose and was making a ringing noise, IIRC with not so much success and that is supposed to be high temp. That's why i'm not sure I want to waste my time taking it back apart to do all that on the chance it'll work.
TL:DR Keep your old broken stuff for parts.
Last Sunday [yesterday] I was trimming my hedge, I have to divide hedge trimming up into 7 sections because I can't do the whole thing in one go, time and physical capacity limitations. I have a big hedge, it keeps most rager zombies out.
Anyhow I was almost done with the 'inside back' section, maybe 15 more feet out of 120 when the snap on hedger attachment started vibrating really bad. Damn. All I have to do is go 15 more feet, by about 9 ft high. I try to keep going but its not really cutting either. :rolleyes1:
Now this is after I've already mowed, edged, trimmed, and blown my yard and done 4/5 of the inside back hedge. [Luckily I had raked up 3 bags of avocado tree leaves on Saturday or I'd be 3 hours in. March is my Avocado tree's fall here in SE Florida]
(https://d3iaqnfgzi8w52.cloudfront.net/asset/e24644bc1d9e6bd987e44dcbc70ff69a/61255/full.png)
I go to my 'fast fix work area', which is a footstool at the front of my garage and my workbench is the driveway, and open up the transmission housing. 6 bolts with battery power driver #11. I don't see anything wrong Initially so pull out the first 'blade gear' #9 and still don't see any reason for me to be doing this. UNTIL I line up the blades evenly [as in the drawing] and then I can see thru the grease that the second 'blade gear' is broken. Wow.
Luckily I have an old craftsman articulating hedge trimmer that this one replaced a few years ago due to other issues. And I kept it for parts. So I pulled out the first 'blade gear' from that and used that to fix the issue. Put both hedge trimmer attachments back together and went back to work.
Note: these craftsman articulating hedge trimmers are really durable. I use to use Ryobi's snap on hedge trimmer attachments but they would only last a year before the gears would give out due to the transmission housing being made of plastic. They were cheap though and IIRC $69 each. These craftsman's have a metal transmission housing and cost upwards of $120 each. But this one has lasted since before covid. Maybe 5 years.
Weird stuff with my Ryobi power head the last few weeks. I didn't need parts just the right tools.
From my previous post you know that my carburetor loosened somehow. They symptom was really bad power followed by failure to start. Fixed by tightening the carburetor.
Well this Saturday I had finished all the regular stuff, mow, edge, trim, and had started on doing some hedging, when all the sudden, like flipping a switch, I got low power and a vibration. It felt almost like and ignition timing thing. But I shut it off and went to check it out and tried starting it to no avail. I was hot, tired, and so I just put everyting away and said I'll deal with it tomorrow.
So Sunday I set up my 'I'm really going to work on this thing' bench and chair and tools, thinking that I might be an ignition coil thing. First I took the back cover off. Then I gapped the plug.
Then I checked to see if the carburetor was loose again by pushing back and forth on it. :eek1: well it wasn't that, it was the entire cylinder head was loose. :rolleyes1: . I'm now kinda happy because I don't have to deal with an ignition issue and I found something wrong right away [diagnosing sucks]. I had to take the front cover off to access one of the two bolts holding the cylinder head on. Really only one of the two bolts was loose, but that was enough. After tightening it up, putting the power head back together, it started right up.
I made a twizzler out of a Ryobi torx bit.
IMG_E3025[1].JPG
I had to replace the crankcase gasket on my Ryobi powerhead, it was leaking oil. And I attempted to remove the muffler but the torx bolts were seized and the bolts themselves were made of a much stronger metal than my set of Ryobi bits I got at HomeDept. The bolts are fine.
I didn't have to take off the muffler to do this repair, so other than WTF, it didn't matter.
IMG_3026[1].JPG
Quote from: MacWa77ace on September 15, 2025, 09:15:39 AMI made a twizzler out of a Ryobi torx bit.
IMG_E3025[1].JPG
I had to replace the crankcase gasket on my Ryobi powerhead, it was leaking oil. And I attempted to remove the muffler but the torx bolts were seized and the bolts themselves were made of a much stronger metal than my set of Ryobi bits I got at HomeDept. The bolts are fine.
I didn't have to take off the muffler to do this repair, so other than WTF, it didn't matter.
IMG_3026[1].JPG
I bought a ton of impact driver bits in various sizes and types because I've chewed up / bent / broken so many of them, and I hate it when that happens and I don't have spares! I love those "tic tac" style dispensers that come with like 15-20 bits in them, like these: https://a.co/d/6dIqDdz
Mac i don't know anyone that hasn't done that a few times. I try and keep a full set of different bits ( 100 or so i think) and a 10 pack or more of the most common ones i corkscrew like T15, T20, T25 several allen sizes too. Don't ask how many #2 philips i got lost count.
I've never bent or broken a toolant bit.
https://a.co/d/6dAFES0 (https://a.co/d/6dAFES0)
Quote from: NT2C on September 15, 2025, 08:08:28 PMI've never bent or broken a toolant bit.
https://a.co/d/6dAFES0 (https://a.co/d/6dAFES0)
Yeah, those Impact bits I'd assume would have to be made of better stuff. Plus isn't there a flex shaft on them as part of the design also?
I use these cheapo ones in a ratchet bit driver and a couple of drill drivers. I don't have an impact driver, but am in the market for a 1/2" impact wrench. To damn expensive! And I'm leery of those $49 no name ones. Mainly due to after market battery replacements. But at that price its less than a battery for a Milwaukie or Dewalt. :smiley_shrug:
I just saw an interesting Idea.
I guy used an IV stand to hold a small plastic container with a fuel line and deliver fuel to an engine for testing to bypass the fuel tank.
My solution when working on my bike was I had this weird metal thing I found lying around my garage, I don't think it was actually a funnel but it fit in the existing fuel line, and worked like a funnel, but only held about 3-4oz of fuel. And I had to balance/wedge it so it didn't spill.
IV fuelstand.jpg
Turns out unused silicon fuel line, has a shelf life. I always keep a few feet of spare lines in a couple versions 'cause this stuff doesn't last long once in use.
I had gone over to my mower supply specialist to buy 5 edger blades a couple of months ago, enough for a couple years or so for me. And while I was there I realized I didn't need any fuel line which I usually end up getting that at the same time. I knew I had some, but that ment it was about 2 years old, and I also knew it was getting sticky just sitting there unused. You know that stickyness that happens to stuff because of science. :rolleyes1:
Recently I had a ryobi powerhead that started running badly and I could see that some fuel was leaking around the fuel lines which is an indicator that they've gotten hard and it needs new lines. I had the unused but 'old' lines, some new filters, so it was a quick change out. I did run some gas thru the line before installing and wiped the outsides with gas to try to get some of the sticky off. It worked and the power head started right up.
Until the next week when it didn't. I messed with the fuel lines and could see that they were a bit compressed where they seal in the hole in the tank so I pulled them out a little to get a fresh seal on the line. That worked.
Until the next week I couldn't get it to start for nuthin'. And my backup wasn't running either, I changed out the crankcase gasket on that, had to pull the piston, and I think I've lost compression on that unit. Won't start. So I'm ordering a compression tester kit ~$20, that I can use on my cars also to see if I need knew rings on that powerhead.
So I skipped a week of edging and trimming, just mowed, and the next weekend I swapped that new old fuel line out with new new fuel line and reused the old filter which really was still new. The new new line is some stuff I have on hand for my Stihls, its a slightly different I/O diameter from Ryobi but it did fit. That fixed it and I trashed the rest of the old new fuel line.
Until the next weekend when it didn't work. So I pulled the carb and cleaned it thinking that some of the sticky stuff gummed up the carb, cleaned all the passages, the screen, and checked the diaphragm and gaskets which were still good. It didn't really look dirty and nothing seemed clogged. The only thing I did notice was that the actuator lever on the carb needle didn't seem to be actuating/moving the needle at all, so I thought the needle might be stuck. But then I figured that the angle wasn't as steep on the thro lever to lift the needle. So I bent it a little and tested it by poking it with a prod and it worked, moving the needle. So reassembled, and it worked, played around with the idle for a second and got that set.
Lets see if it works next weekend.
The lesson of this story? I don't know :smiley_shrug: , maybe don't use old new fuel line that is sticky?
Luckily I had all the spare parts and carb cleaner etc, so didn't have to make one run to any store but dang.
I also had to change out my starting capacitor on my garage door opener last week. I always keep a spare one of those also. This one lasted a little longer this time, went from 5/23 to 10/25. [yeah I mark the date of installation on the outside of the opener] Now have to go buy another so I have a spare cap for it at Grainger.