This winter I'll be driving a lot of steep switchbacks well above the snowline and I'm looking at chains and/or cables for my tires.
Based on this article, I believe cables would be more convenient due to their ability to handle higher speeds, but I like the idea if chains being more durable.
https://knowhow.napaonline.com/snow-chains-vs-cables-which-is-right-for-you/
I thought Popular Mechanics would be a pretty reliable source of information, but the Amazon reviews on the top picks are a little scary.
https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/g35005418/top-snow-tire-chains/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=arb_ga_pop_d_bm_g35005418&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkZKNBhDiARIsAPsk0Wgifarbu8tzh5FUzxRd3DyUNCpJABkfz0TBwj84Ju7hrr-47BgC67UaAhBJEALw_wcB
I don't need them for daily driving or even getting through a snow storm in town. I've consistently handled even horrific ice storms just fine with normal tires. I need them for going straight up a mountain and back down in an old 4runner with 4WD.
Please feel free to add your own unique needs and experiences from your own part of the world to the discussion.
Back when my kids were small (so the mid- to late-late 2000s) we had a couple of years with enough snowfall that it compacted on the street outside and turned to ice. The street goes up a hill and was pretty much impassable to vehicles without external assistance. Because it's a residential side street it didn't get cleared and we waited for the thaw, which only took a week or so.
Since then I've purchased three sets of snow chains (inevitably the next car would have different sized tires and so the old chains wouldn't fit) but inevitably it now hasn't snowed significantly for a decade!
The kids sleds are in the shed looking neglected, too.
Quote from: RoneKiln on November 29, 2021, 11:46:37 PM
This winter I'll be driving a lot of steep switchbacks well above the snowline and I'm looking at chains and/or cables for my tires.
Based on this article, I believe cables would be more convenient due to their ability to handle higher speeds, but I like the idea if chains being more durable.
https://knowhow.napaonline.com/snow-chains-vs-cables-which-is-right-for-you/
I thought Popular Mechanics would be a pretty reliable source of information, but the Amazon reviews on the top picks are a little scary.
https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/g35005418/top-snow-tire-chains/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=arb_ga_pop_d_bm_g35005418&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkZKNBhDiARIsAPsk0Wgifarbu8tzh5FUzxRd3DyUNCpJABkfz0TBwj84Ju7hrr-47BgC67UaAhBJEALw_wcB
I don't need them for daily driving or even getting through a snow storm in town. I've consistently handled even horrific ice storms just fine with normal tires. I need them for going straight up a mountain and back down in an old 4runner with 4WD.
Please feel free to add your own unique needs and experiences from your own part of the world to the discussion.
Studs would likely be your better option as they allow for whatever speed is safe, rather than the ~25-30 MPH limit of chains/cables. (Nevermind what you've heard about cables allowing higher speeds, you'll vibrate your fillings loose before you get to those speeds.)
My current home state of Virginia doesn't allow studs, but I do have a full set of chains for the Jeep and a set for the rear on the Dakota 4x4. If you
really want the best, most durable chains you can get then you're looking for an alloy (usually boron but also nickel-manganese) square link (7mm is best) with V-bars (if you can find them). Figure about $200-$400pr plus tensioners. I'd also advise buying the tools to adjust and repair the chains yourself. It's not hard to do, and you could do a lot of it with a heavy chisel and 3lb hand sledge, but having the right tools (and be sure to save anything you cut off as that's free repair parts) makes the job easier. Also, practice putting them on and taking them off. Outside, in the cold and snow.
When I have chains on either vehicle I'm quick to take them off as soon as I don't need them anymore, mostly to save my expensive chains but also to reduce road surface damage and reduce the chance of needing bodywork from a broken chain. I also carry a hand sledge, fairly heavy hand chisel (for steel), a waterproof groundcloth that doesn't slide much (I use treated canvas), and a chain cutter/crimper tool (about $50 for a good one).
ETA: Oh, and this is where I buy my chains http://www.qualitychaincorp.com/
I'm in Norway so I can't really speak for what's available in the US and I know you do things a bit different, but here are my .2c anyways:
In my experience that style of chains is best for emergencies and have the advantage that they can be put on without moving the vehicle (say, if you are a little stuck). They will not last long at all if used for driving on the road or wheels start spinning, too many things that can break and they generally use thin chain to avoid clearance issues and improve ride. They are however way better than nothing,and can certainly get you out of a sticky situation.
If you want to drive on chains for longer distances there are smaller sized versions of truck or tractor chains that will be much stronger and last longer, but they will be uncomfortable to drive on the road and take more time to mount. There may also be clearance issues on some vehicles, but most 4x4's should be fine. Bigger chain is better in snow and soft conditions, but worse on road.
No Idea about cables, I don't think we can get them here or at least I've never actually seen any. Not sure why or if that says something about them or not...
For my van I have a set of the emergency ones (König brand IIRC), but will upgrade to a truck style set once I've got larger tires on. Not sure what type yet as I'll have to check clearance with the new tires. I always use good studded Nordic winter tires and rarely need chains, but when I do it's because I'm on a back road in the middle of nowhere in a snowstorm hauling a trailer so the chains being reliable and having good grip is the most important for me.