What did you do today for your bug out vehicle?

[MacWa77ace]

Front CV axles.  The CV axle slide hammer tool seemed to make the replacement much easier.

I replaced the knuckle on the driver's side a couple years ago and didn't have any issue getting the CV axle off the knuckle, I did use a bushing separator to do that and that made quick work of popping that off.

Did you need that slider on the knuckle or the transmission side of the axel. I didn't even try to take the CV out of the transmission so not sure if it would have been difficult. What sticks in a CV axle [in case I run into that]?

OT: Post drum brake job, I changed the brake fluid in the corolla. I would have done it when I did the brakes but that job took too long and I was done effing with the car for that day. Next will be changing the power steering fluid. Oh, and put a new battery in the Explorer. I got 5 years out of that one. that's a first. I had used my new $30 battery tester on it and it said it only had 123 CCA and 8v. Went to walmart and they put it on their $3000 tester and I really wanted to see what it would say about it, but another worker there pulled it off before it finished the test.  While I was standing 2 feet in front of it watching it run the tests. So I didn't get a comparison to see how accurate this cheap tester is. Maybe next time.

[wolf_from_wv]

When I replaced the wheel bearings, I used a 3 jaw puller to help push the axle out of the bearing.  There was a bit of rust and the overheating of the bearing didn't help. 

I don't have a garage or lift.

Since the wheel bearings where recent, the axle pulled right out of them.

Driver's side:
CV axle is about 2 feet long.  There is a small detent shaped piece to help hold it in the transmission.  I couldn't get enough leverage to pull the axle out.

Passenger side:
CV axle is about 3 feet long.  It comes out of the transmission, through a bearing mount, then down to the bearing.  I knew it would be hard to get out of there.  No way to reach it without being underneath, even the slide hammer comes with an extension bar (which could have been a bit longer) to reach it.

Slide hammer tip that worked for me:  Take an old bath towel, fold it in half lengthwise until it is 4-6" wide.  Fold it in half around the slide hammer.  Wrap it tightly, and use that to slide the hammer.  It didn't feel like I'd punched a brick wall afterwards.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2VX9GT4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

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Now, I have a slide hammer, and can try to find a set of hub pullers to go with it.  I rented one for the last 4-5 cars I've changed hubs on.

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The Harbor Freight inner tie rod end tool was a bit cumbersome, but it did work when I changed the tie rods.

[MacWa77ace]

Now, I have a slide hammer, and can try to find a set of hub pullers to go with it.  I rented one for the last 4-5 cars I've changed hubs on.

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The Harbor Freight inner tie rod end tool was a bit cumbersome, but it did work when I changed the tie rods.

I'll take a picture of mine. Pretty sure i got it from Harbor freight and it wasn't expensive. Hope we're talking about the same thing. But there's another trick I saw after I got that tool, uses a large tow hook and a prybar to pop the ball joint.

I couldn't find that video and I just watched it last week.  [its not in my history] But I found this one. the guy uses a chain instead of a big hook but the basic principle is the same.

I don't have a lift either, so jackstands, ramps and jacks. 


https://www.youtube.com/shorts/lXt5DcR8ivU

[wolf_from_wv]

Mine has a pinch bolt that holds the ball joint.  Once I got the bolt driven out, I was able to just push on it with a pry bar to get it out.  It seems that it is built in, so to replace the ball joint, you replace the lower control arm.  On the S10 I had, I was able to use my ball joint press to change them.



Inner tie rod tool:  https://www.harborfreight.com/inner-tie-rod-tool-set-58391.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=17889101751&campaignid=17889101751&utm_content=168028628048&adsetid=168028628048&product=58391&store=3518&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88a5BhDPARIsAFj595itdtQv1pjeKRc8QCI-DgUOf5iRcHYvGuyvXxUg7-PZVw7WzCy1h0waArhxEALw_wcB

[Rednex]

Put a new battery in the Xterra yesterday, AGM from local place.

When i redid the front axles on my truck, they bolt to the front differential. And fell out of the hub.

[NT2C]

Diagnosed a bad starter issue on my Jeep.  Been having what I thought was a parasitic draw issue that caused the batteries to drain.  After disconnecting everything I've added the issue remains.  Did a Google search and turns out this is a known bad starter issue.

[airballrad]

I think I have found the cause for my hardwired 12V air compressor blowing fuses; a bad ground causing a voltage drop which caused the circuit to draw enough current to blow the 25A fuse.

Testing is promising, so we will see if I am right.

[NT2C]

I think I have found the cause for my hardwired 12V air compressor blowing fuses; a bad ground causing a voltage drop which caused the circuit to draw enough current to blow the 25A fuse.

Testing is promising, so we will see if I am right.

Kinda similar to my no crank issue.  Turns out Jeep starters rust when the Jeep sits idle outside most of the time (I use it about once a week), this makes it harder and harder to get the starter to turn until, eventually, the battery can't supply enough current.  Mine is at the point where even with freshly charged batteries and connected to a charger with 80A boost turned on, all I get is "thunk".  To actually get it started I have to jump it with heavy cables (2 gauge) from the wife's Pilot.  Going to try getting it to the dealer on Friday.

[airballrad]

Hopefully it's as simple as new starter. Any chance they will cover it since it is a known issue?

Incidentally, my recent adventure into amateur radio has caused long-lost knowledge to bubble back to the surface, which is probably the only reason I figured it out.

Kinda similar to my no crank issue. 

[NT2C]

Hopefully it's as simple as new starter. Any chance they will cover it since it is a known issue?

Incidentally, my recent adventure into amateur radio has caused long-lost knowledge to bubble back to the surface, which is probably the only reason I figured it out.

Kinda similar to my no crank issue. 

No issues about it being covered.  When we bought the Jeep we opted for the lifetime "MaxCare" package.  Everything on the Jeep is covered, bumper-to-bumper, (except expendables like brakes and wipers) is covered for as long as we own it, with a $200 deductible that my dealer usually waives.

[MacWa77ace]

[...snip...] Oh, and put a new battery in the Explorer. I got 5 years out of that one. that's a first. I had used my new $30 battery tester on it and it said it only had 252 CCA and 8v. Went to walmart and they put it on their $3000 tester and I really wanted to see what it would say about it, but another worker there pulled it off before it finished the test.  While I was standing 2 feet in front of it watching it run the tests. So I didn't get a comparison to see how accurate this cheap tester is. Maybe next time.

Anyhow, here's my $30 KONNWEI tester results on that bad battery. Forgot I had taken this pic.

[majorhavoc]

[...snip...] Oh, and put a new battery in the Explorer. I got 5 years out of that one. that's a first. I had used my new $30 battery tester on it and it said it only had 252 CCA and 8v. Went to walmart and they put it on their $3000 tester and I really wanted to see what it would say about it, but another worker there pulled it off before it finished the test.  While I was standing 2 feet in front of it watching it run the tests. So I didn't get a comparison to see how accurate this cheap tester is. Maybe next time.

Anyhow, here's my $30 KONNWEI tester results on that bad battery. Forgot I had taken this pic.

Damn.  Even if that Konnwei tester is only 80% accurate, those results are pretty crystal clear - time for a new battery!  And yeah, if you got 5 years out of this one, I'd say you got your money's worth. 

Apologies - I haven't been tracking this thread topic too closely.  I knew you were doing brake work but were you also having starting issues and that's why you got the battery tested?  If not, then this sure was lucky timing - learning about it now before temps got too cold.  That's when a marginal battery tends to reveal itself.  And by reveal itself, I mean strand you somewhere.

[MacWa77ace]

This is a long story but TL:DR yeah that battery was dead and wouldn't take a charge.

The battery is in my Explorer. We're not using that SUV at all really, maybe 2-3 times a month for 20 minutes. And its been like that for the last couple years, so I Keep putting a float charger on it at least once a month until it reads fully charged. [solid green light] And that sparce use is probably why I got 5 years out of it. All my other batteries only last about 4 years in this Florida heat.

NOTE: Walmart batteries changed their warranty to 2 years. I used to always get a prorate, so had to pay full price on this one, and they said two years.

We keep the Explorer in the garage and every time I go out there can see this little red light that is on the dash blinking and if its blinking the battery isn't dead. 

I knew the battery was 5 years old and would need to be replaced soon but it always starts the truck right up with no issues. I did buy one of those little USB dongles that you plug into the OBDII to keep all your memory when you change out the battery. When it came in I was like, 'ok, now all set'. [I hate resetting the oil life on that car, its stupid difficult]

Anyhow, A bunch of stuff happened really quickly. I had put the float charger which is 1.5amps on it and left it over night, but it never charged past 80%. The car would still start. So I ordered that Konnwei tester and put my deep cycle charger on the battery, and it never charged. The tester came in and I went out in the garage and that little red light wasn't blinking. I had ran the car two weeks prior. and tried to charge it the week before.  Not blinking = dead battery. And then I ran that test and you see the result. Bad Cell.

So I got the USB ODBII battery changing backup and didn't get to use it. I still had to reprogram all the radio stations, the clock and the oil life. 

That's when a marginal battery tends to reveal itself.  And by reveal itself, I mean strand you somewhere.

Yep, this battery started the truck like a champ right up until it stroked out. Did not manifest any weak symptoms.  May have shorted out a cell somehow.
The brake job was on the Corolla.

[12_Gauge_Chimp]

Did a fluids check on the Chimpmobile/Bluehawk today and ended up slicing my left index finger on a hose clamp by the anti-freeze reservoir.

It bled a little and I held my shirt on it for a bit before remembering "I've got a first aid kit in my truck. What the hell am I doing?".

[NT2C]

Did a fluids check on the Chimpmobile/Bluehawk today and ended up slicing my left index finger on a hose clamp by the anti-freeze reservoir.

It bled a little and I held my shirt on it for a bit before remembering "I've got a first aid kit in my truck. What the hell am I doing?".

Okay, that makes me a little teary-eyed.  BlueHawk is truly yours now.  He's tasted your blood.  If you bleed on him you bond with him.

[12_Gauge_Chimp]

Did a fluids check on the Chimpmobile/Bluehawk today and ended up slicing my left index finger on a hose clamp by the anti-freeze reservoir.

It bled a little and I held my shirt on it for a bit before remembering "I've got a first aid kit in my truck. What the hell am I doing?".

Okay, that makes me a little teary-eyed.  BlueHawk is truly yours now.  He's tasted your blood.  If you bleed on him you bond with him.

Oh, BlueHawk isn't going anywhere. He's stuck with me whether he likes it or not.

[MacWa77ace]

The BMW now has a pair of new front tires and an alignment.  $755. They tried to sell my wife a front brake job for another $400. ROTFL. 

They said the pads were down to 2mm. IMO that's 10k-20k miles. Lucky Ms Mac called me. The pads at Advanced are $47 for the set. Also there is an electronic wear sensor on the brakes and they are not indicating they need to be replaced.

I'll inspect them myself, early next year.

[wolf_from_wv]

I arrived at work Thursday to find that my car door wouldn't open...  I had to climb over the center console to get out.   Fortunately, I was able to get the door open.

Upon taking the door apart, I found that the cable came loose from my door handle.   It was a simple task to put the cable and catch back in the proper slot.

[Rednex]

Ok so i'm on vacation this week, getting ready for the move and had time to burn. Going to the dump in my truck, 2 miles from home  the red oil light came on. Stooped and shut it down, waited 3 min and check the dipstick. Nothing on it but splash. Got a quart out of the tool box , added it, waited and checked again. Had a little on the dipstick. Limped it home and parked it in the workshop. This morning i did the oil change on it. guessing about 5 quarts came out, black but no metal chunks, not a lot of powered either. Started up no knock, no click, no taps ( got get if i looked at the oil pressure gage in the dash or not).Probably going to order a oil pressure test kit here later to double check stuff and maybe a new sensor.

[NT2C]

Just bought a high-end dashcam system for the Jeep.

Power supply

Camera

Remote

Memory card